The hidden language of protest fashion
From punk laces to TikTok codes
Now that we are seemingly in an era where social media algorithms increasingly control what content reaches audiences, activists are turning to creative methods to circumvent digital censorship. One fascinating example is the recent "cute winter boots" trend on TikTok – a seemingly innocuous phrase that actually serves as code for anti-racist and anti-fascist content. This contemporary adaptation of coded protest language follows a rich historical tradition of using fashion as a medium for political resistance.
The Return of Lace Code: Old Symbols in New Contexts
The resurrection of "lace code" – the practice of using shoelace colors to signal political affiliations – demonstrates how protest movements adapt historical tactics for modern use. Originally emerging in the punk and skinhead scenes of the 1960s and 70s, lace code centered around Dr. Martens boots, with different colored laces conveying specific political stances. Red laces often signified left-wing or anarchist politics, while white laces became unfortunately associated with white supremacist beliefs, prompting anti-racist activists to deliberately choose contrasting colors as symbols of opposition.
Historical Precedents: Fashion as Political Language
This practice of encoding resistance in clothing has deep historical roots across various movements:
The Suffragette Movement employed a sophisticated color scheme in their dress: purple for loyalty and dignity, white for purity, and green for hope. These colors weren't just decorative – they formed a visual language that helped identify allies in crowds and demonstrated solidarity.
During the Civil Rights Movement, the Black Panthers' uniform of black leather jackets and berets transformed everyday clothing items into powerful symbols of resistance and unity. The deliberate choice of uniform helped create a recognizable visual identity that commanded attention and respect.
In the 1980s AIDS crisis, the SILENCE = DEATH pink triangle appropriated and reclaimed a symbol of oppression, turning it into a powerful tool for activism and awareness. Worn on clothing and accessories, it allowed people to signal their support for AIDS activism while navigating spaces where explicit discussion might be dangerous or unwelcome.
Digital Age Adaptation: Coding Resistance
Today's social justice movements face unique challenges in digital spaces. Content moderation algorithms and automated filtering systems have forced activists to develop new strategies for communication. The "cute winter boots" phenomenon represents a sophisticated evolution of protest coding – using seemingly apolitical phrases to bypass content restrictions while building community and spreading awareness.
This digital coding extends beyond single phrases. Activists have developed entire alternative vocabularies, using everyday terms as substitutes for flagged words and concepts. This linguistic adaptation demonstrates how protest movements continue to evolve, finding new ways to express resistance within the constraints of their environment.
The Power of Subtle Resistance
What makes these coded fashion and language choices so effective is their deniability. Just as a pair of boots with colored laces might seem unremarkable to outsiders while carrying clear meaning to those "in the know," modern digital codes allow activists to build networks and share information while flying under the radar of automated content moderation.
This subtlety serves multiple purposes:
Protection from censorship and algorithmic suppression
Creating in-group solidarity and recognition
Allowing for plausible deniability when necessary
Building community through shared understanding
Looking Forward: The Evolution of Protest Languages
As social media platforms continue to refine their content moderation systems, we can expect protest movements to develop increasingly sophisticated methods of coded communication. The persistence of these tactics – from colored shoelaces to coded TikTok phrases – demonstrates how resistance movements consistently find ways to adapt and communicate, regardless of the constraints placed upon them.
The evolution from physical symbols like lace codes to digital codes like "cute winter boots" shows that while the methods may change, the fundamental human drive to resist oppression and build solidarity remains constant. Understanding these historical parallels helps us appreciate the ingenuity of modern activists and the continuing importance of creating spaces for resistance, even in heavily monitored digital environments.